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The Travel Journal of Jacqui and Lars

 

Thailand - 12 April, 2003:

Thai New Year's Eve in Bangkok

 

Weather: Mostly clear, sunny and very hot.

 

 

We are ready to head out and join the massive street party - we have changed into our old clothes, put on our sandals, emptied our pockets of everything but some money and one credit card safely stored in a couple of ziplock bags, and filled up our water guns.  We are locked, loaded and ready for bear!!!

 

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Paolo has joined us and we head out into the streets.  The streets are pretty quiet around here, and we are easily able to grab a taxi to take us to the backpacker area of Khao San Road.  The whole street is full of low budget accommodation and restaurants and bars that cater to foreigners.  We take a taxi most of the way there, but have to get out about 500 meters away from the main road - the traffic has built up and it is quicker to walk.  We soon find out why.  The main road near Khao San is packed with people and cars enjoying the celebration.  The city has erected these huge water fountains that spray water all over the place.  They are lit up and there are many people frolicking in the spray of water.  Everyone around here is wet and having a great time.

 

We decide to head to Khao San Road itself to see what is happening there.  It is utter madness.  The street is packed with people - a nice mix of foreigners and locals, all there to have a good time.  Pretty much everyone has some form of water shooting device, but this year they tend to be smaller than in previous years that we have been here during the water festival.  It seems the Thai government has, for very good reason, banned the huge water "cannons" that had become popular.  Some had huge water reservoirs that you would carry on your back like a flame thrower with a pump action that could shot water out at high pressure over great distances that could cause some damage and harm.  So, now it is more fun - while you get very wet, you do not have to worry about a massive blast of water in your face.

 

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We make our way down the street, getting wetter and wetter as we proceed.  We are also getting covered in the powder that the locals have traditionally put on each others faces wishing them luck in the new year.  The crowd is very good - out to have a good time, but altogether well controlled.  We have not had dinner, so we pick out one of the many restaurants and head into the open store front to have something to eat.  The remarkable thing about this festival is that while everyone has water guns and water is being sprayed everywhere, people are pretty well controlled and certain rules and standards are observed.  While the restaurant is wet on the floor from everyone walking in and out, no one sprays water into the restaurant itself.  We also observed this at other spots where throwing or spraying water would be inappropriate - people (locals and foreigners) refrain.

 

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After having our dinner (and taking the opportunity to re-fill our water reservoirs - this is key), we wander up and down the streets some more.  We notice the few policeman that are stationed here, helping keep control.  They do not seem to mind getting a bit wet and being covered in the powder.  Everyone gets into the mood of the holiday.  We take a break from the crowds and find one of the many open air bars and sit down for a drink and a rest.  In any case, we can watch the crowds from here, have a drink and avoid major water spray.

 

We decide to head from here down to Patpong.  We make our way through the thronging revelers back to the main street.  Along the way, we stop to buy some bottled water to fill our depleted reservoirs.  Enterprising locals have come out with some very cheap bottles of water that is not used to drink, but rather as ammunition!!!  Back at the main street, we once again observe the huge water fountains spraying the people as the cars inch their way through, trying to find a way through the masses.  We make our way down a side street a bit to avoid the traffic and then hail a taxi.  We are dripping wet, covered with powder, but the taxi driver does not blink an eyelid - they are used to it.

 

We arrive at Patpong after a quick drive and then have to brave our way down the soi to Noi's bar where which we will make our outpost for the night.  We have to weave our way through the multitude of uncoordinated ambushes that have been set up at all the bars that line the soi.  Some people are sitting on the bar stools, shooting out at what ever passes by.  Others have hoses, which they use to absolutely soak anyone coming by.  Some have the powder they spread all over your face.  We do not pass through without a fight.  Our guns our fully loaded and we run though, shooting back as best as we can.  Sometimes the best defense is a fierce offense.

 

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We make it to Noi's bar in one piece and not much wetter than before (and that is because we were just about as wet as we could get), said our hellos, got a drink and then went to refill our water guns.  We then took up our positions.  Well, the rest of the night is spent getting other people as wet as possible and getting very wet ourselves.  At one point, we decide to undertake a foray into the other lanes of Patpong to check out what is going on.  The many street vendors have closed down their stalls and packed up for the next few days.  Not worth getting all their wares wet and soaked.  We are sprayed with water at every turn, but we give back as good as we get.  The worst part is when people use ice cold water - that is brutal.

 

Back at Noi's bar, we continue to soak the passing people are cars.  Some pick-up trucks come through, with the cargo area containing with oil drums filled with water and people frantically throwing water at everyone around them.  We blast them back with all we have.

 

This goes on until 2 AM, when we decide to call it quits and head back to the apartment.  We step into the taxi dripping water and, as we head back home, the floor slowly fills up with a pool of water.  The taxi driver takes it in stride.  What a great night.

 

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